Bye Chiev! Here is a symbolic photo of our guide Chiev walking away through temple rubble. Actually this is on the first day so he isn't yet tired of listening to me whine about finding "that temple from the movie where the guy tells his secret" ... I hope to one day soon come back to Cambodia and report on it properly. There are a million untold stories there and a lot of pent up grief, frustration and at the same time hope for the future. It's a country that is home to an ancient kingdom that built one of the man made wonders of the world; it is also a country that saw the end of senseless war only eight years ago, not long after it exterminated its middle class, its intellectuals and its artists. It is impossible, I believe, to assign a relative value to a single life, but imagine a country bereft of a living cultural heritage, a country that is starting from scratch, and you are imagining Cambodia. It is easy to think of the Killing Fields and Khmer Rouge as a thing of the past but it's a past that wasn't so long ago and one that is still very much a fabric of everday life there.